Liz Cirelli

From Udaipur we made the 16 hour overnight bus journey (thankfully without any toilet emergencies…praise be to the merciful gods of poo!!) to the desert city of Jaisalmer. The landscapes of Rajasthan stand in contrast to the lush & leafy tropical south - up in the north-west the land is dry and arid this time of year. The mountains rise up, rocky, dusty, dry and golden, and the grasslands are parched and straw-like. It is beautifully stark. As we began nearing the golden city of Jaisalmer, the mountains flattened into the prairie-like desert plains of the Great Thar Desert. We arrived during the middle of the Desert Festival, and the city was bustling. Thankfully, on the recommendation of a friend, we had booked our hotel in advance, and wonderfully they came to pick us up from the bus station. If you ever happen to visit Jaisalmer, stay at the Mystic Jaisalmer guest house – it’s a fabulous, very friendly little place, run by lovely Ashraf – who goes out of his way to make you feel welcome & ensure you have all you need. When we booked, Sophie & I opted for a tent on the roof. In my head, I imagined a safari-like, big tent…but what we got was literally a camping tent on the roof! Ha! We laughed and agreed “bring it on”. It was cosily kitted out with warm mattresses and duvets, and Sophie & I very quickly felt right at home in our wee tent.

Since we’d made the journey to Jaisalmer specifically for the desert festival, we headed out into the city to sample the sights & sounds. It was all taking place inside the sandy city stadium. Crowds were huddled around the arena, some on camels, others seated at the stalls, to watch the camel show. The camels were paraded around, and then some camel acrobatics took place. It made for good entertainment, but in all honesty, it was slightly naff. We stayed for about an hour before we’d had our fill of entertainment…and went in search of food, bumping into the rather dishy ‘Mr Desert 2012’ (really wouldn’t complain too much if he kidnapped me in the middle of the desert) – and wandering through the bazaars, taking in the beautiful & intricate architecture of the city.

The following day we opted to go on a camel safari through the desert. Whilst we were in Udaipur, Sophie & I managed to venture out to purchase ourselves a pair of absolutely divine turbans that we fully intended to wear in the desert whilst riding on a camel. We simply could not wait to bring our turbans out of their boxes and get ourselves dressed up for our desert adventure. Ambling through the dry & dusty plains on our camels, I truly felt like Lawrence of Arabia and couldn’t get the theme tune to the movie out of my head! The sun was bright and hot, and the wind was strong and cold. It was such a strange climate – hot but cold…and so very dry. No matter how much moisturizer I put on my face it still felt as dry as the desert itself! The dunes were serenely beautiful - I gazed at them, watching as the wind ceaselessly carved the sandy curves out of the tiny grains of sand. We visited little villages, glimpsing the lifestyle of the desert people. Life out in the desert must be tough – the people look haggard and worn...but yet they still smile and have a zest for life. We spent one night in the desert, camping out under the stars and the full moon. As we watched the sun setting behind the dunes in the west, we saw the full moon rising above the dunes in the east. It was a truly beautiful moment. Sleeping under the full moon was utterly magnificent – and the desert is beautifully serene & silent. You can hear the gentle hum of the wind around you, and the noises of the camels in the distance…and that’s about it. Despite the temperatures getting close to freezing during the night, we were well & truly cosy under a tonne of blankets.

Next, we headed to Jodhpur, the blue city – accompanied by Fa & So (how perfectly melodious), a beautiful Argentinian couple we had completely fallen in love with during our camel safari. Whilst we were there So, Sophie & I had some beautiful gagra cholis (traditional Rajasthani dresses) made for us, especially to wear at a wedding we had been invited to in Mumbai. In true girly style, we got so excited gushing about how beautiful the dresses looked and how many stunning, stunning pieces of cloth were all around us in the shop, that we almost had ourselves in tears – silly girls! Never have I been anywhere as colourful as Jodhpur's market - rows and rows of bangles, beautiful gagra cholis, pashmina shawls, beautifully carved statues of Hindu gods...this really felt like India!

To contrast the uber-girly indulgence of the previous day, Sophie & I ventured to the fort of Jodhpur in search of the Flying Fox zipline. It had been so highly recommended to us by one of the crew from Udaipur that we simply had to do it – and what an exhilarating experience it was! I felt like 007 himself as I zipped across the fort, traversing rivers and flying above the rooftops of Jodhpur. What an awesome way of seeing the city! I couldn’t help but sing the James Bond theme tune to myself as I zipped from one corner of the city to another. A definite ‘must-do’ on your list of Jodhpurian activities!

Onwards to Pushkar…but not without a compulsory 'manic Indian moment'…foolishly, Sophie & I had thought we could fit in the zipline, picking up our dresses from the tailor, withdrawing cash and catching the bus to Pushkar by 1pm. Oh no. Our dresses were late, none of the cash machines in the area were working…and the rickshaw driver didn’t know how to get to the bus station. Note to self…never, ever leave anything to the last minute in India! Nothing here happens quickly or easily! We made it to the bus just in time – and breathed a massive sigh of relief as we slumped into our seats. Pushkar – such a beautiful little town – with so many beautiful things to buy! I must admit, I came a little unstuck here and went on a bit of a shopping frenzy, treating myself to some gorgeous silk clothes…and they’re so very pretty! It wasn’t all about consumerism in Pushkar. Sophie & I ventured up a hill to one of the hill-top temples for a spot of spirituality, taking an open-minded little crew with us for a little spiritual cleansing ritual, and a fabulous view of the town.

And it was with Pushkar that we departed beautiful Rajasthan, destined for the metropolis of Mumbai. It is true what they say, you really do feel like you’re in real India up here – it is so full of colour and beauty - women wear fabulously coloured, sequined gagra cholis - think bright scarlets, fuchsias, yellows, greens - and sometimes cover their faces with their luminescent veils, giving them such ethereal beauty. The people are so warm & friendly – travellers and locals alike. As we sat on our train to Mumbai, Sophie & I reflected on how many wonderful people we had met since arriving in Rajasthan. It was hard to say goodbye to them and keep moving on, but I guess the very nature of travelling teaches you to let go – of preconceptions as well as attachments. It is perpetual transition – in your immediate surroundings you cannot develop any attachments for long, and if you carry preconceptions or expectations you ultimately risk hampering your experiences by placing judgement on them. It has been very interesting trying to apply this to my own life…travelling also offers you the gift of time – time to think – and dig out all those old attachments that no longer serve you.

And on that note we entered Mumbai…which has been a great teacher. It has tested our patience to the extreme, it has stretched (and probably increased) my endurance, it has definitely made me stronger and wiser. It’s a busy, bustling city – and it has a rhythm that takes a little while to adjust to. You need to learn – and learn fast - to deal with certain things…like handling the rickshaw drivers in a way that prevents them from literally driving you around in circles just to earn a few extra bucks from your ignorance. It’s busy, it’s bustling – it’s an assault on the senses – and the traffic is insane. London traffic? It’s a walk in the park compared to Mumbai’s roads. But, it is also charming and beautiful once you learn to rock with its rhythm. Built on the west coast, you are never far away from the ocean (even if it's not really apt for swimming in) and the diversity of people living within the city is really something to marvel at. The super rich live alongside the uber poor - and slums are surrounded by affluent financial districts. Whilst here, Sophie and I went on an eye-opening tour of Dharavi, Mumbai's oldest slum. A far cry from the desolate, poverty-stricken wasteland I was expecting, Dharavi is actually responsible for generating around $630 million a year. That said, it is mind-bogglingly densely populated - some of the streets are so narrow you can barely squeeze through them...and whole families live in unthinkably tiny houses. And as we wondered through the industrial area of the slum, I couldn't help but think to myself that the industries generated here are some of the seriously tough ones: plastic recycling, industrial paint & oil can recycling...and preparing animal skins for tanning (I will now definitely think twice before buying leather). There is industry here sure, but the people live in a less than hospitable environment...and their salaries are incredibly low. It certainly puts things into perspective. I'll definitely think twice now about complaining about the lack of space in London...

A world away from the slum was the traditional Indian wedding I was so blessed to be able to attend. One of Sophie’s closest friends is from India, and it was her cousin’s wedding. His family were so kind that they extended the invitation to me when they learned that Sophie & I were travelling together. What an extraordinarily amazing experience it was. The first event was a family gathering that involved much dancing to the sound of traditional Indian drumming, getting beautiful henna painted on to my hands, family members sitting in a circle singing traditional Indian songs…and of course tremendous amounts of delicious food. It was wonderful to be introduced to the groom’s family and to have such a privileged insight into such an important event in any Indian family’s calendar.

The main event took place a day later – and Sophie & I excitedly donned our gorgeous gagra cholis that we’d had made in Rajasthan. We certainly made heads turn as we walked to the street to hail a rickshaw, our sequined skirts & veils shimmering in the Mumbai sunshine. We arrived at the family’s home just as everyone was getting ready – the ladies were putting on their finest (and tremendously beautiful) saris – and the men were looking smart in suits. After being served up chai and food, we were ushered into a marquee, where the men were having their turbans tied. The groom was escorted in, looking very dashing in a glittering golden jacket & turban. The priest prepared the area & the groom was seated. He was then bedecked with a golden crown, draped in sparkling golden tinsel that covered his face, and garlands covered with cash were hung around his neck. The drummers began banging out their infectious rhythms and the crowd exploded into joyous dance, twirling cash around the groom’s head. The procession then began moving outside the marquee and into the streets, where the groom was raised up onto a horse. We paraded the streets, towards a coach that would take us to the hall for the main ceremony. As we approached, dancing and drumming, people gathered at the side of the streets to watch the procession & wish the groom well.

Upon arrival at the grounds of the hall, we were greeted by another band – and an organ on wheels no less. Our drummers were also close by, and the two bands played conflicting rhythms, which, if you were caught in the middle of them, sent your head into dizzy confusion. I giggled to myself…so much like India herself. We were greeted by the rest of the wedding guests as we danced our way up the hill to the hall. Men were carrying huge candelabras on their heads, whilst waiters busily pushed trolleys laden with yummy appetizers, trying to avoid the toes of the dancing masses. We arrived at the entrance to the hall and the priest summoned the significant males of both the bride & the groom’s families. He placed garlands of flowers around their necks and they embraced one another, signifying the union of the families. We were then lead under a fairytale-esq archway, draped in flowing fabrics...and along a pathway, decorated with pretty coloured lights and flowers, to the main area. It was like walking onto the set of a fairy tale movie – it was vast – and all so beautifully decorated. As we entered the wedding area, the magnitude of the event really hit home – to the left was a stage adorned with swirly golden pillars that the bride & groom would later sit on to take their vows, next to that were 2 swimming pools, and to the right was a massive area with tables & chairs, several food stalls serving a wide array of delicious treats, couches to chill out on, water fountains, and various bars serving an assortment of hot & cold drinks. At the very front was a huge, elaborately decorated stage – and…a skycam, televising the whole event onto two enormous television screens that were placed either side of the stage.

After the guests had had a little time to sit and sip mocktails, the groom entered on his trusty steed and was lead to the main stage, he was dismounted and carried up onto the stage, and then lead to his throne to await his bride. After a few moments, the drumming could be heard once more, and the bride entered, covered by a red canopy, held up by her relatives. She looked absolutely beautiful (and also a little terrified), as she made her way up to the stage to meet her groom. The couple were wed - but no vows took place at this point - that happens at the very end of the night - this was a very quick ceremony. Next came a full-on feast of all sorts of varieties of Indian culinary delights - and Sophie & I absolutely gorged ourselves! At around 2am, the guests began gathering around the swirly golden stage near the swimming pools for the ceremony of vows. The priest read the vows to the newly-weds as they ceremoniously walked around a fire. Gifts were offered to them and flower petals were thrown over them to signify the end of the beautiful ceremony. Next, back to the groom's family home (and now the home of his new bride) for some traditional wedding games that involved fishing a golden ring out of a bowl of milk. The wonderful night ended at around 7am the next day...wow...wonderful!

From slums to weddings...to partying with the beautiful people of Mumbai. Halfway through my stay here I linked up with Randolph - one of the many lovely people I met through Pawas - who (in addition to being absolutely wonderful) just so happens to be somewhat of an Indian rock star. It's been a lot of fun hanging out with him, sampling the trendy party scene of the city - and putting the world to rights with long philosophical conversations! Tonight & tomorrow night I'm donning my DJ hat once more to play at a couple of cool little intimate parties. Very much looking forward to getting behind the decks again!

Then on Saturday evening I'm flying back to Goa for my yoga teacher training course. I'm so looking forward to fully immersing myself in yoga & meditation for a whole month...

The local cows of Jaisalmer having a chill amongst the market stalls

Part of the view of the Jaisalmer Desert Festival

More festive fun...and the fort of Jaisalmer in the background

A colourful crowd enjoying desert festival entertainment...well, at least some of them are...

The dark & mysterious Mr Desert 2012...oo-er...

Some of the gorgeous intricate architecture of Jaisalmer

Market time in Jaisalmer!

The Jaisalmer fort in all its glory...which is apparently sinking into the hill it's built on...

Morning!!! Waking up in our little rooftop tent...

The camels await to take us on our desert adventure...

A sample of desert village life

the sand dunes of the Great Thar Desert


Camel - check! Turban - check! Right then...off to the desert it is...

Setting up camp for the night in the desert

Trying to keep warm as the sun sets

desert camp!

Waking in the desert after sleeping under the stars...and a tonne of duvets!


Our desert trail

The beautiful blue city of Jodhpur


Zipping!!!

Taking a moment to strike a pose on the swing outside our pretty little room in Pushkar

Pretty Pushkar from the hilltop temple

The sacred bathing ghats of Pushkar

The Gateway To India, Mumbai

Hazey Mumbai

Having a chill on one of the many beaches of Mumbai

Having my hands painted with henna

At the family home, waiting for the festivities to begin!

The groom, bedecked in his golden tinsely crown

Dancing & twirling money!

The groom on his steed, with a little child - who, traditionally, would be his replacement should the groom suffer death in the ensuing fight for his bride. Happily these days the fighting part is eliminated.